Sea Eagles v's Buzzards

Woken by what sounded like a Big Bird argument outside my window, I scooted out of bed and across to the window. The morning was fair and bright, the autumn reds and golds spread like musical notes across the hills on the far side of the sea-loch. Below me on Tommy’s field I found the cause of the cafuffle, and with my heart in my mouth, grabbed my neat little bedroom sized binoculars and clamped them to my eyeballs.

Before I had a visual on this intercourse, I had heard crows swearing and cursing as an undertone, with the keening cry of one or two buzzards as top notes, although it was hard to be clear through early-morning ears. I did know it was worth finding out, for sometimes, the bickering of crows tells me that His Majesty is in the area with his huge wing span and his white tail and his royal glide across the sky.

Not this time, though.

The sky was empty of all songbirds, so I knew a predator was nearby; and I was right.

On the grass below me a fight was about to begin over the carcass of a large rabbit. Standing over it was, what looked like, a rough-legged buzzard, although I know it would be a rare thing for one such bird of prey to be here on the island; and I can be highly confused by the different garb these wild things take on as juveniles, females, males, adults in winter, adults in summer, juveniles in winter and so on………

Anyway, back to the battle.

The crows lunged and squawked at the buzzard, like louts, juking back pretty quick as the beak came down like an axe over their heads. Positioning themselves on opposite sides of the focus of their attack, they harried and parried and behaved much like the thugs we know them to be, wearing him down until he tired out and flew off, leaving breakfast for them. Crows can do this for hours I know, so I turned to find some clothes to wear for just a moment. Suddenly the noise level escalated into riot size and I was back, and this time, no need of my neat little bedroom sized binoculars.

A second buzzard of uncertain family tree had landed what looked like inches away from the other and the two huge birds took their positions for battle, wings slightly out, necks thrust forward, feet two square on the grass. Needless to say, the crows bounced off a few yards and watched quietly. Not me, by this time. Now I am shrieking for Richard to watch, and my mouth is wide open, my heart pounding in my breast.

For some minutes, the buzzards lunge at each other, claws lashing and rising off the ground a little higher every time. The crows jigged about like hoodlums, calling out now, excited by this clash of the Cuin Titans. The sky, suddenly emptied of all songbirds when the buzzard first appeared, were back, looping across the morning sky to land on the fences and among the hazel scrub, spectators for the show. The excitement was so electric, I couldn’t even leave to brush my teeth.

One of the buzzards lunged at the prey and tried to fly, but the weight of it defeated him and he only managed to rise a couple of feet off the ground. Buzzard number two hurtled across and caught the other end of the rabbit in his beak. Then all hell broke loose and the two of them rolled each other over and over, and all I could see was a tangle of claws and wings, browns whites, blacks and the dull grey feathering of the onlookers.

Defeated, one of the protagonists rose into the sky and disappeared over the loch. For a while, the winner tried over and over to lift the carcass, whilst the crows, bored now of their hoodlum antics, and of watching the big boy bounce up and down and never leave, wandered away to peck among the cow pats. Exhausted and beaten, the buzzard lifted into the wind and, with a sharp cry, wheeled away and out of sight.

Wow, I thought, what a gift. Better than any tv!

Crows cackled again, so I walked back to look and nearly fell out the window.

There, right outside my window and rising together, one with the carcass held firmly in his massive claws, were two sea eagles. As I watched, they lifted effortlessly and silently together into an empty sky and were gone.

Later, as I sat down to paint my face all the colours of the rainbow, I saw the buzzard, alone now on the grass, searching for his kill.

Judy (SLS Mum)

Mull Adventure Blog - Part 6

And so it has been, dear reader that the days and weeks continued. New experiences were had and new lessons learnt every day but an old routine of sorts has come to pass and it makes the entire experience feel utterly fantastic. Days on the boat have been fun, days in the office a laugh and on the occasional days off I have had a chance to catch my breath, sit back and admire where I am and what I’m doing.

Unfortunately, part of this routine appears to involve a mistake I am commonly making (among many others) over dolphin and porpoise fins. Many of our best beloved passenger’s mistake porpoise sightings for dolphins and so if people say they’ve seen a dolphin I always assume it’s a porpoise. Many of my avid readers may well remember the same mistake being made on the trip that Andrea and Helen joined me on. Dear reader I did it again! Bottlenose dolphins popped up to say hello this time, in a most unexpected circumstance. They even surprised Popz!

Events in the office have sometimes taken me by surprise also. For example I was completely unprepared for the moment when, happily (or has happy as one can be completing such a task) I was logging feedback form information into the database when along came a couple of passengers we’d had on board who came from none other than SOUTHWELL! As I inputted the address, I kid you not; I actually shed a few tears! Matters were not helped by a song with distinct memories of university life starting to play over the stereo and I shed a few more. It hit me then (as it repeatedly does many times a day) that this was not just another summer with university waiting for me to return to. This is me, for the rest of my life. Indeed a scary thought to be thinking in the middle of a visitors centre full of tourists in the middle of the morning time! However, the moment passed and I carried on, plagued for the rest of the day by the echoes of the past three years of my life.

Back on the boat and trips have been good (as they always are of course!) When it comes to SLS, spirits are never dampened by mere bad weather, especially when extra high fives between the crew occur constantly over good sightings and jokes about the link between the mysterious missing bog brush and Ewan’s hair come into play! I assure you we are all professionals but some serious fun is had on that boat! I’m even driving Greenie although I still can’t quite remember how to start her up properly. In the office as well I’m finding that I KNOW things now! I can answer the phone confidently and enjoy the challenges that are often brought in with the tourists, of course with a smile on my slightly salty and wind burnt face!

And so we have arrived at the day of the Coll Cricket Charter where the trip we had was not for our best beloved holidaymakers but for a local cricket team situated on the Isle of Coll who were coming over to play Mull in a friendly tournament. Now for those of you who may not know, Coll is a small Island with a population of around 220 people and, as I was to find out, a far larger population of the infamous and dreaded Scottish Midgie! However I get ahead of myself, as before we reached Coll we had to get there to pick up our cricket players. This involved Ruth, Popz and myself all waking up at an obscenely early hour to take Sula Beag out to Coll. As the dawn broke over my caravan I groaned and cursed the idea of waking up (as I do most mornings!) and then scrambled out of bed and off to Tobermory then away we went to Coll. The morning skies arranged themselves in front of my eyes as we headed up the Sound and I found myself admiring what a glorious way it was to wake up in the morning! This being said I had already achieved the somewhat irksome task of waking and therefore was in a much better state of mind to enjoy the morning as it was!

We arrived on Coll, passing many a sleepy Atlantic Grey Seal among the rocks on the shoreline and loaded up with bats, balls, cucumber sandwiches and the players themselves. These players turned out to be rather interesting characters...”jolly good chaps” you might say! Whilst the loading was in process all of us were being viciously attacked by vast hoards of hungry midgies and we were all grateful that they were not this bad on Mull itself. And so we headed back to Mull, keeping our passengers topped up with tea and coffee and trying to avoid being hit by their practice swings!

Once back on Mull I found myself with a few hours to spare as I wasn’t needed until we had to take the cricketers back to Coll after their match. Being a beautifully glorious day I decided to go along the coastal walk that heads towards Rubha Nan Gall lighthouse and look out for porpoise over the Sound of Mull. This I did, becoming invariably muddy in the process and, although I didn’t spot any porpoise I had a lovely few hours up there. Meanwhile Ewan had volunteered to play for the team and helped lead them to victory!

The time came for the Cricketers to be returned home, jovial and triumphant and clambering aboard the boat laden with celebratory whisky and the coveted cricket trophy! A few too many “wee drams” (which were not so wee) later we were once again back on Coll and turning round for the last time to head towards Mull. Popz let Ruth be our skipper for most of the journey and we sat and enjoyed the evening, heading towards the darkening skies and admiring the spectacular scenery and light that the Hebrides has to offer. We were joined by a few pretty juvenile Kittiwakes and the occasional gannet who joined me in watching the clouds shift into ever changeable shapes (many resembling elephants!) I got to sit on the bow, listening to the waves whispering secrets to each other whilst the water rushed towards and beneath me. The sky showed me every imaginable shade of blue and grey it had to offer and I had never felt more at peace with the world. It was a stunningly calm evening and one that will stay with me for a long time.

Eventually the surrounding islands disappeared into the darkness and Ruth, Popz and I gathered in the wheelhouse, following the blinking lighthouses back into Tobermory. The day had been long and varied and different but as I drove back to the caravan my tired head could still recall that scene of beauty, one that could not be captured in an image, no matter how skilled the photographer and one that drifted in and out of my dreams that night like my own version of heaven.

Next time on the Mull Adventure Blog...I grow a beard, team Yorkie attacks the west of Mull with cameras, and a rare cetacean comes to say hello!

Sarah
Guide

Mull Adventure Blog - Part 5

When we think about diversity, hopefully it’s how we see our cultures, maybe it’s how we see our opinions and possibly we think of that dance group that won X factor’s got talent or something along those lines! But recently dear reader, life has had some very diverse twists and turns for me. You can go from peaceful serenity to lively conversation and enthusiastic (!) dancing in the space of an hour. It’s amazing how quickly you can adapt and savour the moment, definitely a good lesson to have learned.

But I do apologise most profusely, my ramblings have become a bore once again and so I shall plough on with the adventure tale. However I hope to show through this what a diverse mix of experiences this island has to offer.

It began with another glorious evening after a day at work in which a lovely lass called Megan (who was working where I live) knocked on my caravan and explained that a few people were going out on the bay with the boat and would I like to come? I of course said yes, mentally noting the beautiful light and packing both camera and long lens. She then explained that they were going for a swim and would I like to go in too. After the initial shock at how brave (or crazy) they were being I declined given my distinct ineptness at this particular sport. The wellies were donned, the boat launched and out into the bay we went. The peace out there was indescribable, we weren’t even that far out but the water was but rippling glass, the sun in its last throes of setting and, despite being by the “main road” not a vehicle in sight or earshot. And so, as I happily snapped away, the three girls and my landlord jumped in. To say it was cold was most definitely an understatement as I understood it but they seemed to enjoy it nonetheless. I took some photos of them splashing around with the sun behind them – pure magic and then they all clambered back in the boat, shivering but exhilarated. After that we floated around the bay for a while, soaking up the atmosphere and feeling calm and content with the world.

Once back on shore we traipsed up the track to the house and soon after I was called to head over to Tobermory for a night out with the SLS crew. After having jumped in the car to do the now familiar trek to the town, I found myself directed to the pub next door to the Harbour Visitor Centre and inside found Ruth followed by Lydia and Craig (ex guides) as well as Duncan. We headed over to “The Mishnish” which, I was to learn was a rather infamous little pub that hosted a cheesy mini disco type thing occasionally. Everyone in there seemed to know everyone else (a hazard of island living I guess) and soon Lydia and Ruth were dancing away to some of the songs that held memories for them from last year. Lydia seemed somewhat impressed that I was up for joining in without any alcohol gracing my system although it took the boys a little “convincing”! Frazer, who we found at the pub had possibly had a little too much of the stuff in his system but we were all having a good time. It struck me at this point that barely an hour previously I had been on a boat in a bay as chilled as it was possible to be and now I was enjoying some thumping tunes in a pub. Diverse? Yes!

3am came and went and with the knowledge that most of us would be at sea tomorrow we thought it wise to call it a night. I say this but the time did just happen to coincide, most coincidently with closing time! Either way, everyone piled in my car so I could take them up the rather formidable hill. This most short of car journeys turned out to be impeccably hilarious! Firstly the windscreen was misted up but I set off anyway, much to the concern of Ruth who was convinced I couldn’t see a thing. Secondly I was being directed (most unhelpfully) in every direction they could think of before I realised where it was we were headed. Thirdly, half way up the afore mentioned formidable hill there is a junction that doesn’t look like a junction. Now do understand dear reader that I am a responsible driver (despite others claims!) so given the time of night and generic lack of cars on the island I swung round and through the junction without much thought. This action then prompted Lydia to ask, in a most stringent tone whether I had bothered to even LOOK left?! It made me chuckle to say the least!

After dropping off the SLS crew at Ruth’s house and getting excited about seeing a hedgehog in the driveway I headed back to the caravan. The road, obviously empty, did seem rather eerie in the pitch black but I was accompanied by the eye shine of many a sheep, deer and the odd rabbit having a late night party.
Once back at Glen Aros Lodge I walked up the track and came across two Australians sitting in patio chairs wrapped up in duvets watching the stars. Now several things struck me as unusual about this particular scene as I’m guessing my dear readers can imagine, it was 3:30am after all! Admiring the stunning sky for a brief second I conceded that it was indeed bed time and collapsed inside my sleeping bag for a grand total of 4 hours sleep.

Needless to say the next day brought with it some aspect of fatigue but I have failed to mention the special-ness of what the next day would bring. Along with sunshine it brought LIFEBOAT DAY! Now some of you may wonder what lifeboat day actually is. In brief it is a day where money and awareness is raised for lifeboats and the work that they do along the coast and out at sea. Work that, I must add, is of the utmost importance. SLS was running seal cruises all day with all proceeds going to the lifeboats. As well as this there were various stalls in the car park, tours of the lifeboats themselves and even, much to my delight, a rodeo bull! (Just to clarify, this was a mechanical bull, not a real live creature.) Now on this particular day I was working in the office with Natalie but soon entered into the spirit of lifeboat day (for it does indeed have a spirit) in every way I could. One such way was decided to locate some facepaint and decorate my face with the lifeboat flag. Upon closer inspection this did seem to resemble the England football team flag but with RNLI stamped across my forehead and cheeks I’m hoping our visitors got the point. This prompted a brief conversation with my boss as to whether I should undertake some facepainting as a stall outside. Encouraged by Maggie (a truly awesome person and sister of my hero) I did indeed go outside and started painting some flags on people. This quickly evolved into butterflies, big cats and, on one occasion, a pink kitten with green glitter spots!

Whilst this was going on we had Ewan and Frazer selling seal cruises by the bucket load (with Frazer becoming a human billboard) and Duncan guiding on Sula Beag. Meanwhile Ruth and Lydia were preparing for the grand and epic life raft race and dear reader it was indeed an epic affair!

Now dear reader as most of you know I have never lived on Mull for a considerable length of time and thus was unaware of the fun to be had on lifeboat day in general and in particular, the hilarity and comradeship that occurs during the life raft race. SLS did indeed have a life raft entered, homemade as per specification. Anticipation mounted as the (essential) life jackets were donned and rafts set afloat in the harbour. Team SLS set off and almost immediately were in the water so decided to swim. And swim they did, beating several rather imaginative raft designs as well as lifeboat staff themselves! They didn’t quite win outright but it was a very valiant effort and stood as I was on the quayside, happily taking photographic evidence I felt truly honoured to be part of such an amazing team.

I now turn your attention back to the mechanical rodeo bull mentioned earlier. I, of course, child that I am, was desperate to have a go and I finally got the chance after the race. I vaulted on and away we spun until, 42 seconds later I fell off, smearing face paint everywhere and laughing my head off. I had 48 seconds to beat so immediately tried again only to fail at 40 seconds this time. Humbly beaten I cheered as the next person sailed through 1 minute and beyond, he was good!

And so it was that the awesome-ness of lifeboat day came to a close and everything was packed up. Whilst packing up was undertaken I went back into the office to find Nat and offer apologies at rather abandoning her throughout the day. What I found however were several crates of alcohol! It turned out we (SLS and the lifeboat crew) were to be having a barbeque...at sunset...on a pontoon...on Mull! I fell in love with the idea instantly (who wouldn’t?!) and helped take afore mentioned alcohol, burgers, sausages etc down to Sula Beag.

We set off straight across the harbour to pick up some people and then on to the pontoon. It was beyond idyllic! Some fished for mackerel over the side whilst Popz gave a small speech, punctuated perfectly by the news that the first fish had been caught! The sun shone, music was played, food was eaten, photos were taken; it was magic! It should be mentioned that by this point my face paint had been on my face for a few hours too long and was beginning to annoy me but in such a happy mood it barely mattered. However it was at this time that a small wager was placed on the fishing proficiency of two of our friends. Lydia was adamant she could catch a fish quickly and so this was put to the test. Dear reader she was wrong, but only just! And so the forfeit was undertaken, in she jumped and swam back onto the pontoon to dry off in the last of the sun.

Our appetites sated, the temperature turning cold and with the day nearly over we decided to start thinking about heading back. But not before Lippy and a friend decided to have a swim. The decision was made to jump in from Sula Beag. Lippy made a spectacular dive and splash closely followed by his friend confidently shouting “APRIL FOOL!” over the side and sauntering back along the boat, remaining warm and dry. We all laughed!

Lifeboat day ended and recently we found it raised £3000 so we were all very proud of our efforts. A fabulous team doing amazing things for a worthy cause.

Sarah
Guide

Mull Adventure Blog - Part 4

d so we return once more to a little corner of my brain to explore what lies within. And I do believe that where we left that exploration was at the pony trekking adventure with Helen and Andrea.

The trek set off down the lane and into a trot along a short stretch of road. It was fabulous to be back in the saddle and Smokey had a lovely gait. As I was promised he did indeed look after me and it was only a short amount of time before we reached the beach. This particular beach was a lovely wild affair, pebbles stretching far, calm water and, as we were to find out, fantastic wildlife! I won’t go so far as to suggest that we spotted an otter, that would just be ridiculous now wouldn’t it! However, once we’d crossed a fast flowing stream and along a shingle bank towards the sand we were joined by a White Tailed Sea Eagle. Now I thought I was getting good views of these creatures from the boat but they paled in comparison to this encounter! Flying directly overhead, seemingly lead by curiosity at the four-legged creatures we were riding our feathered friend circled above and ever closer. What a sight!

And so it was that it was time for our canter across the sand. As I’m sure many people will agree, there can be something rather magical about cantering along a beach, especially with mountainous backdrops and friends on a horse by your side. However Smokey, obviously having seen these spectacular sights many a time before, was more concerned by his stomach. Just as we were setting off into a canter the greedy little guy grabbed a huge frond of seaweed and was happily munching away on it as we trotted and eventually into the canter. I was told he was like a rocking horse which I found to be true and we sailed along the shoreline with the large piece of seaweed dangling from his mouth! The canter didn’t last long, Smokey being more content to trot and myself unable to convince him otherwise but it was absolutely fantastic and I know it was a dream come true for Helen. Andrea’s horse was content to stay just behind mine and so they didn’t really have a canter but all was not lost as we shall explore later!

With the canter being over we headed up the beach and along some tracks into areas of forest, periodically trotting and walking and occasionally stopping when Smokey thought of his stomach again and I was unable to pull his head up from the ground. He was a cheeky little pony! But in fairness for him walking through a field of sweet grass much be like us walking through a field of chocolate. In no time at all we were walking through forests and through little streams and trotting along the lanes in a very enjoyable fashion. Chatting to Helen and Andrea along the way and trying to get photos of us all together was hilarious and I couldn’t stop grinning, it was such a fabulous experience, better than any trek I’ve ever been on and believe me I’ve been on some amazing treks! We even saw deer along the way, who again seemed less frightened of humans if they were on horseback, it’s an interesting concept.

Eventually we found ourselves back along the beach as we headed home for another canter. Helen, Andrea and I hung back so we could all canter together and get a film of it. The idea worked...for the first 5 seconds...until Caspian steamed ahead! However that feeling of unity between all 6 of us for those brief seconds will still with me for a long time. Andrea finally got her canter on Oak and I had another one too although in the film Smokey helpfully decided to head back into the trot. Once back at the stables we happily dismounted, Andrea being shocked by the short distance down from her 14hh pony compared to her 17hh horse back home!

We came back to the caravan happy, smiley and beginning even then to stiffen up! The next morning the insides of my legs were like lead so hobbling around the office was a rather hilarious affair! Sadly though this was the morning Helen and Andrea were leaving and so I said goodbye and they headed off for the ferry, their soaking wet tent taking pride of place in the boot. I was very sad to see them go but glad that they had come, it had been an incredible few days. But now they were gone there was work to be done, in the office, on the boat and with the Otter hunt! Now dear reader these animals are, as I have mentioned before proving themselves to be rather elusive little animals so don’t go thinking that, after all this time on Mull I may well have seen one by now...I haven’t! However one glorious evening after a day in the office I decided to head over to Loch Na Keal as it was supposedly another good Otter site. Having gotten advice about Otters and tides from my boss I knew as I arrived that I had come too late as the tide was high and the seaweed and rocks hidden beneath the water.

However the drive was beyond spectacular with even narrower roads than I had originally experienced on the island, the sea on one side, mountains on the other and the sun in its first early throes of beginning to think about setting. Whilst driving I came across a dried up river bed that led a scar up half the side of a mountain face. For these contexts I will use the term mountain but, although it was very steep and high it was no Everest! Upon spotting this rocky route tempting me upwards I decided to go for it, led on a whim and sheer curiosity as to what I would find at the top. The great climb began. It was epic!
I will use this opportunity dear reader to explain several things I did wrong in this most wonderful of evenings in the hope that you will ignore the terrible example I set if you ever find yourself in a similar situation. For one thing no one knew where I was. That was bad. For another I had no credit on my phone, another error and for a third, although I am reasonably fit, had decent footwear on and was used to doing this sort of thing it had been a long time since I had therefore I knew as I climbed that any slip could prove very disastrous. Thankfully none occurred. Sheep watched me as I left the old riverbed onto vast and steep expanses of grass and ferns. Picking my way up the sheep tracks (ever trusting nature’s judgement) I stopped along the way to take some photos, admire the view and spot the car looking ever smaller on the road far below me.
Reaching the top and clambering over I was slightly breathless from the ascent and stopped on the ledge to look all around me. The views across the loch to Eorsa were stunning and behind me, stretched out as if there was never such a thing as a city were vast plains of heath land, touched neither by man nor animal. I stayed on the top awhile, drinking in the views, trying to do them justice with my camera and reading a little in the peaceful atmosphere.

However this dream could not go on forever and as the sun started to set I began my descent. Once at the bottom again I drove home in the fading light feeling at peace with the world and everything in it. I’ve found Mull does that to you. You can be stressed and pressed for time and worried about a million things but somehow the Island doesn’t let those thoughts encroach on your day. They are still there, waiting to be dealt with but in your own time and at your own pace. Some people describe what’s known as “Mull Magic” and I think this might be it. I don’t believe in magic but I know that Mull has something about it. I think God must have been having a really good day when he made this place and I’m very grateful that he did.

Sarah
Guide